This shock rides very nicely. Adjustment takes only a few minutes - set the sag with air pressure then adjust the rebound until the bike isn't bouncy. It needs to be pumped up at least once a week or the bike becomes unstable from sag. The eyelet bearing is just a plastic coated steel tube so it doesn't last long before you're hearing painfully loud creaking form aluminum and steel grinding together. How to replace this bearing? Take it off your bike and mail it to Fox for two weeks!
Stores tell me that Fox won't allow them to sell maintenance components - not even expendable items. On the Fox schedule, that's two weeks of downtime and $165 for (work+shipping) every 125 hours of use. This shock rides very nicely. Adjustment takes only a few minutes - set the sag with air pressure then adjust the rebound until the bike isn't bouncy. It needs to be pumped up at least once a week or the bike becomes unstable from sag. The eyelet bearing is just a plastic coated steel tube so it doesn't last long before you're hearing painfully loud creaking form aluminum and steel grinding together.
How to replace this bearing? Take it off your bike and mail it to Fox for two weeks!
2006 fox float rl, 2009 fox float rp2, fox rp3 rebuild, fox rp3 manual, fox. Fox Float R Manual. Fox shox / ebay - electronics, cars, fashion, collectibles. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Fox Rp2 Boost Valve Manual Note the valve at the bottom8163993t-fox-float-rp2-3-dampe of shock available, which are particularly important for the boost.
Stores tell me that Fox won't allow them to sell maintenance components - not even expendable items. On the Fox schedule, that's two weeks of downtime and $165 for (work+shipping) every 125 hours of use. I use to work in the automotive offroad industry. We could buy a coil-over shock (Racerunner or King Shock hand built shocks)for a rock buggy for $300 a piece, why does this little tiny thing cost so much retail new? The numbers don't add up??
I refused to pay full retail for something like this. Bottom line is I paid $100 for this, it is a 2008 model, works great, and spent very little on it. I live 20 minutes from PUSH Ind.
So it will go to them for a build when it does need it. I like this RP2 one better than my RP3 (now on the wife's bike even after I had it PUSH'ed)mainly because of the pro-pedal.
I think FOX did some improvements on it in the couple years of time. My style of riding is ALL over, always looking for the path with some air and huckability, and this shock has just kept going like a trooper. Makes me feel good for only paying $100.:). I use to work in the automotive offroad industry. We could buy a coil-over shock (Racerunner or King Shock hand built shocks)for a rock buggy for $300 a piece, why does this little tiny thing cost so much retail new?
The numbers don't add up?? I refused to pay full retail for something like this. Bottom line is I paid $100 for this, it is a 2008 model, works great, and spent very little on it. I live 20 minutes from PUSH Ind.
So it will go to them for a build when it does need it. I like this RP2 one better than my RP3 (now on the wife's bike even after I had it PUSH'ed)mainly because of the pro-pedal. I think FOX did some improvements on it in the couple years of time. My style of riding is ALL over, always looking for the path with some air and huckability, and this shock has just kept going like a trooper. Makes me feel good for only paying $100.:). I bought this shock as overstock from an overseas seller. This is not the OEM fitment.
The Kona Kikapu is an older 'faux-bar' single pivot design, which has a fair amount of pedal bob. I wanted a shock with a significant amount of platform valving, to counteract pedal bob uphill.
The Fox Float RP2 was perfect in this regard - the ProPedal switch firms up the back dramatically, making climbing much more efficient. The downside with my setup is that I didn't research the leverage ratio on my frame. The Kikapu is a relatively low 1.9:1 leverage ratio on the linkage; a light compression shock would have been more appropriate for my application, but the medium is working out OK. It just isn't as 'plush' as it could be.
I bought this shock as overstock from an overseas seller. This is not the OEM fitment.
The Kona Kikapu is an older 'faux-bar' single pivot design, which has a fair amount of pedal bob. I wanted a shock with a significant amount of platform valving, to counteract pedal bob uphill. The Fox Float RP2 was perfect in this regard - the ProPedal switch firms up the back dramatically, making climbing much more efficient. The downside with my setup is that I didn't research the leverage ratio on my frame. The Kikapu is a relatively low 1.9:1 leverage ratio on the linkage; a light compression shock would have been more appropriate for my application, but the medium is working out OK. It just isn't as 'plush' as it could be.
I bought my bike with this rear shock. Found it to be okay although I don't feel all the adjustments have much of an effect. Frankly I think this shock and its feature are overrated.
The shock is overpriced. Most disappointed and discouraged now that the Propedal lever fell off. I have sent a few correspondence to Fox regarding getting another lever and so far found that there is zero customer support from Fox. I hate owning products with absolutely no customer support from the company.
Unfortunately I am seeking a replacement now. Hopefully either a unit from a company that will stand behind their products or else a unit that I can service myself. I bought my bike with this rear shock. Found it to be okay although I don't feel all the adjustments have much of an effect. Frankly I think this shock and its feature are overrated. The shock is overpriced. Most disappointed and discouraged now that the Propedal lever fell off.
I have sent a few correspondence to Fox regarding getting another lever and so far found that there is zero customer support from Fox. I hate owning products with absolutely no customer support from the company. Unfortunately I am seeking a replacement now. Hopefully either a unit from a company that will stand behind their products or else a unit that I can service myself.
I've got around 600 miles on this shock (came on my Giant Anthem X2) and the more I ride it, the less I like it. The problem that I have with it is that there's way too much compression damping built into it which really makes the shock less active over small bumps and leads to a rear end that's much less compliant. The rebound adjustment does work but I think the 'gaps' between the adjustment points are too big.I have one setting where it will buck me off the bike as it rebounds and then the next click 'slower' causes the shock to 'pack up' noticeably over smaller stutter-type bumps. I like to have a very active and compliant rear end on the bike that gets full travel and makes the bumps disappear.this isn't doing it for me on the bike it's on. I have a DT SS190DL on my BMC Trailfox 01 and that shock is super active and just makes the trail disappear.I like it much better (By the way, both bikes use a virtual pivot suspension system so that factor should be somewhat the same when evaluating the two shocks.) One thing I do like about the RP2 is that I can (mostly) get full travel out of it at close to the recommended sag setting and that's something that the DT shock won't do.
Another thing I dislike about the Fox is that it's supposed to get air sleeve maintenance pretty often. I ride in a dry/ desert like climate and take meticulous care of my bikes and this shock started getting all sticky and required seal replacement at around 350 miles which I think is just too often but fortunately it's easy and the kit is cheap. Maybe it's just me/ my weight/ bike/ and riding style but this isn't doing it for me at the moment.I'll have to see if I can sort it out. I've got around 600 miles on this shock (came on my Giant Anthem X2) and the more I ride it, the less I like it.
The problem that I have with it is that there's way too much compression damping built into it which really makes the shock less active over small bumps and leads to a rear end that's much less compliant. The rebound adjustment does work but I think the 'gaps' between the adjustment points are too big.I have one setting where it will buck me off the bike as it rebounds and then the next click 'slower' causes the shock to 'pack up' noticeably over smaller stutter-type bumps. I like to have a very active and compliant rear end on the bike that gets full travel and makes the bumps disappear.this isn't doing it for me on the bike it's on. I have a DT SS190DL on my BMC Trailfox 01 and that shock is super active and just makes the trail disappear.I like it much better (By the way, both bikes use a virtual pivot suspension system so that factor should be somewhat the same when evaluating the two shocks.) One thing I do like about the RP2 is that I can (mostly) get full travel out of it at close to the recommended sag setting and that's something that the DT shock won't do. Another thing I dislike about the Fox is that it's supposed to get air sleeve maintenance pretty often. I ride in a dry/ desert like climate and take meticulous care of my bikes and this shock started getting all sticky and required seal replacement at around 350 miles which I think is just too often but fortunately it's easy and the kit is cheap. Maybe it's just me/ my weight/ bike/ and riding style but this isn't doing it for me at the moment.I'll have to see if I can sort it out.
Weight 0.45 lbs./205 g (6.50' x 1.50' No reducers) features/ adjustments high volume standard air sleeve, lightweight chassis, DOHC Technology that provides pedaling efficiency as well as control and sensitivity for big and small hits. With 2 positions, air spring pressure, rebound adjust spring air intended use A style of riding that is defined by short course technical acrobatics and athletes that defy gravity.
Generally, the bikes and components required for freeriding are stronger and heavier than their lightweight cross-country brethren. Combine the aerial pyrotechnics of freeriding with some longer trails and courses, as is typical of cross-country riding, and now you're looking at all-mountain riding., A style of bicycle riding that melds the stamina and conditioning required of cross-country with the technical abilities of freeriding., A style of bicycle riding that is defined by long rides, lightweight bicycles and stamina.
Installing Your Shock If you are installing your shock on a bike in which the shock is not original equipment:. Install the shock. Remove the main air chamber air cap and let all the air out of the main air chamber. Carefully cycle the suspension through its entire travel.
Check that all parts of the shock are clear of the frame and swingarm as it cycles through the travel. Pressurize your main air chamber to a minimum of 50 psi and no more than 300 psi. You will tune to a more specific air pressure in the section below.
General Maintenance There may be a small amount of air sleeve lubricant residue on the body. This is normal. If this residual air sleeve lubricant is not present, this is an indication that the air sleeve should be re-lubricated. Some other things to consider for all shock models:. If you ride in extreme conditions, service your shock and air sleeve more frequently. For your shock.
2010 Fox Float Rp23 Manual
Wash your shock with soap and water only. Do not use a high pressure washer to clean your shock. Internal service should be performed by FOX Racing Shox or an. Before You Ride. Clean the outside of your shock with soap and water and wipe dry with a soft dry rag.
Do not use a high pressure washer on your shock. Inspect entire exterior of shock for damage.
The shock should not be used if any of the exterior parts appear to be damaged. Please or FOX Racing Shox for further inspection and repair. Check that quick-release levers (or thru-axle pinch bolts) are properly adjusted and tightened. Check headset adjustment. If loose, adjust according to manufacturer’s recommendations.
Check that brake cables or hoses are properly fastened. Check that the front and rear brakes operate properly on flat land. Setting Sag You can also view a. To set Amount a shock or fork compresses with the rider sitting on the bike in a normal riding position.
Best measured with an assistant holding your bike up and with the rider in full riding gear. On a fork, it is helpful to place a ZIP tie around one of the upper tubes.:., and compare it to the recommended sag setting shown in the below. Continue if the sag is not to specification. Locate the Schrader air valve on the shock and remove the air valve cap.
Screw the onto the air valve until the pump shows pressure on the gauge. Do not over-tighten. Add air pressure until desired pressure is shown on the gauge. Refer to the below for the proper sag setting. Unthread the pump from the air valve and measure sag.
Repeat steps 2-5 until proper sag is achieved, then replace the air valve cap. AIR SPRING SETTING guidelines Shock Travel (in./mm) Sag (in./mm) 1.00/25.4.25/6.4 1.25/31.7.31/7.9 1.50/38.1.38/9.5 1.75/44.4.44/11.1 2.00/50.8.50/12.7 2.25/57.1.56/14.2 Adjusting Rebound Rebound controls the rate at which your shock returns after it has been compressed. The proper rebound setting is a personal preference, and changes with rider weight, riding style and conditions. A rule of thumb is that rebound should be as fast as possible without kicking back and pushing the rider off the saddle. The rebound knob has 8-10 clicks of adjustment. For slower rebound, turn the red adjuster knob.
2012 Fox Float Rp23 Manual
Fox Float Rp23 Owners Manual
For faster rebound, turn the red adjuster knob. ProPedal The ProPedal lever allows for on-the-fly ProPedal adjustment. ProPedal damping reduces pedal-induced suspension bob. The two ProPedal lever settings are:. OPEN. PROPEDAL Use each setting to adjust the shock for different riding conditions and situations.
For example, use PROPEDAL for riding to the top of the mountain, and then switch to OPEN for the descent. To determine which ProPedal position is better for your condition and situation, pedal the bicycle and monitor the shock movement. Switch between positions and select the one that reduces suspension movement most effectively while providing the desired amount of bump absorption.